Welting



(Det. 19, i937. 1 F. PLUMMER 2,096,006

WELTING Original Filed Feb. 5, 1931 Patented Oct. 19, 1937 UNITED STATES* PATENT oEFicE WELTING Application February 5, 1931, Serial No. 513,480 Renewed January 1,5, 1937 11 Claims.

The present invention relates to welting which is used in the manufacture of welt and stitchdown shoes, and more particularly, but not exclusively, to the art of making calking welts which are used to calk theshoe crease formed between the upper and the welt to exclude dirt and moisture and to impart to the shoe a heavy I and storm proof appearance and which are secured, with the Goodyear welt, to the upper and insole by the inseam stitches.

It has been proposed heretofore touse a calking welt of the said type composed of a single strip ofv material to calk the shoe crease formed between the welt and the upper of a welt shoe, but this type of calking welt has made no impression in the shoe art owing to the fact that the face thereof whichis exposed to View in the finished shoe is a :Ii'eshv face presenting inherently anunattractive appearance. In order to ex- 20 pose. to View an attractive grain face in the finished shoe it has been proposed heretofore to wrap a rounded filler within a strip of leather and to use the bead thus formed as a calking welt. While this calking welt mayv present an 25 attractive appearance the rounded formation of the bead prevents its` making a tight joint either with the flat face of the exposed face of the welt or the bulge in the upper opposite the feathered edge of the insole. Moreover, as this type of 30 calking welt is composed of two pieces it is expensive to manufacture.

The. principal object of the present invention is to produce a calking welt, composed of a single strip of material, which, when inserted into the 35 crease formed between the upper and the welt of a welt shoe and secured, with/the Goodyear welt, to the upper and insole by the inseam stitches, will present to view a grain face.

To the accomplishment of `this object, and of i0 others which will appear hereinafter, the various features of the present invention reside in certain constructions, arrangementsv and methods of manufacture hereinafter described and then set forth broadly and in detail in the ap- 45 pended claims which possess advantages readily Aapparent to those skilled in the art.

The various features of the present invention will be understood readilyby those skilled in the art from an inspection of the accompanying 50 drawing illustrating the best form of the calking welt at present devisedA and the preferred method of making it, and, incidentally, the preferred method of making a grain faced stitch-down welt forming a by-product of the method for 55 making the calking welt which,

Figure 1 is a sectional elevation of a Welt shoe showing the improved calking welt located in the crease formed between the welt and the upper;

Fig. 2 is a detail View in perspective of a stand- 5 ard strip of Goodyear welt shoe welting;

Fig. 8 is a detail View in perspective of the product of the first step in the improved method of making calking welts;

Fig. 4 is a detail View in perspective of the l0 product of the second step in the method, and,

Fig. 5 is a detail view in perspective of the improved calking welt which is the product of the third and final step in the method.

The improved method of making calking welts starts with a standard strip of Goodyear welt shoe welting B (Fig. 2) of a desirable width. The strip E is provided with a grain face I and a flesh face 3. The strip 6 is formed, as usual, into a continuous strip by scarng together a number of separate pieces. The scarf joint presents to View, on both the grain and ilesh faces,

a transverse line IIJ, and, on the edge faces, a diagonal line II.

The first step in the improved method of making calking welts consists in removing bodily from the strip 6 three rectangular strips which may be used as welting for stitch-down shoes. Two of the strips of welting for stitch-down shoes are removed bodily from the grain side of the strip 6 and they are, therefore, welting of the type known in the shoe trade as grain faced welting inasmuch as one of the faces presents the grain to View. The other strip of welting for stitch-down shoes is removed from the flesh side and is, therefore, a flesh faced welting as both faces thereof present the flesh to view.

The grain faced welting for stitch-down shoes is formed by an angular cutter having three edges, one of which slits the edge face of the strip 6 along the line I2 (Fig. 3) to a predetermined extent, another of which cuts the grain face 'I along the line I3 to a depth less than the distance of the slit fromvthe grain face, and the third one of which forms an angular cut along `the line I4 connecting the horizontal slit and the vertical cut. With this method the grain faced welding for stitch-down shoes, cut out of the strip S, is provided with a beveled edge which is formed by the cut along the line I4. Heretofore it has been necessary to bevel the edge of the grain faced welting for stitch-down shoes in a separate operation. It should be understood that the three cuts referred to are duplicated on the 5.5

other side of the strip to Yobtain two grain faced welts for stitch-down shoes.

The flesh faced welting for stitch-down shoes is formed by a cutter having three cutting edges, two of which form-the vertical cuts I5 and I6 and the other one of which forms the horizontal cut I1 joining the other two cuts.

Fig. 3 illustrates the product of the rst step after the three strips of stitch-down welting have been removed. As shown, the first step product.

is provided with grooves I8 and I9 terminating in vertical shoulders 28. Integral with the shoulders is a central intact grain face 2l. The step product illustrated in Fig. 3 is also provided with a groove 22 directly beneath the face 2| but narrower in width than said face. Thus a llet for two calking welts is obtained through the removal bodily of three strips of welting which are not Waste as they may be used in the manufacture of stitch-down shoes.

' The first stepproduct is divided along the line 23 (Fig; 3) into two strips 24 one of which is illustrated in Fig. 4. As shown, the strip 24 is provided with a flat flesh face 25, a shouldered flesh face 26, a flesh edge face 21 and a lip or extension 28 provided with a grain surface projecting beyond the edge face 21.

Before the first step product is divided to form the second step product the central intact grain surface may be marked, embossed or printed in an ornamental manner.

The adjacent faces of the strip 24 and the lip 28 are now provided with an adhesive and then the strip 24 is run through rolls which impart a curvature to the lip 28, turn it over upon the edge face 21, and cause the liesh side of the lip to adhere to the adjacent edge face 21 thus to produce the calking welt 29 illustrated in Fig. 5.

lReferring to Fig. 5 the calking welt 29 is provided with a flat flesh face V25, a' flesh face 21, an inner flesh face 30,- a flat ilesh face 26, a Vertical shoulder 3l and a lip 28 the outer surface of which is grain and the inner surface of which is flesh. The free end of the lip 28 extends to the plane of the flat flesh face 25. The esh face of the lip is secured to the adjacent flesh face 21, preferably by an adhesive. l

The calking welt 29 is assembled With a welt 32 (Fig. 1) in the welt sewing operation so that their inner ends are secured to the upper 33 and the insole 34 of a welt shoe by the inseam stitches 35. Thetension on the inseam stitches is sufficient to pull the ends of the grain face 28 of the calking welt 29 rmly into engagement with the exposed face of the welt 32 and the bulge in the upper 33 opposite the feathered edge of the insole 34. As shown in Fig. 1, the free end of the grain faced lip 28 engages normally the exposed face of the welt 32 and the edge between the lip 28 and the shoulder 3l engages normally the bulge in the upper. When the shoe is provided with an outsole 36 andthe shoe is levelled,

' the lip 28 is squeezed into the crease formed between the welt and the upper. Thus the sharp edge between the lip 28 and the shoulder 3l is caused to dig Yinto the upper sufficiently to make a tight joint between the calking welt and the upper. The flat face to face engagement of the calking welt with the exposed face of the welt 32 also makes a tight joint between the calking welt 29 and the welt 32.

The present invention contemplates the finishing of the grain faced lip 28 of the calking welt 29 completely before it is incorporated into a shoe. This finishing may include ornamentation. j The only face of the calkng welt 29 which is exposed to View in the finished shoe is a grain face which is inherently attractive in appearance, which is capable of receiving a high finish, and which may be ornamented in a pleasing manner.

The present invention also contemplates the use of stitches instead of adhesive as the medium for securing the lip 28 to the edge face 21.

. As the diagonal line Il on the edge face 21 is covered by the lip 28 the scarf line l0 will be exposed to view in the nished shoe as a short Vertical line which is easier to finish and presents a more attractive appearance than the diagonal scarf line Il.

It will be clear to those skilled in this art, and with the general objects of the present invention in View, that changes may be made in the steps of the method and in the details of structure, the described and illustrated embodiments thereof `being intended as exploitations of the underlying essentials of the invention, the featuresv whereof are definitely stated in their true scope in the claims herewith.

What is claimed as new, is:

1. A welt shoe having an upper, a welt, an insole, a calking welt, and an inseam for securing them together, wherein the calking welt is a single strip of undoubled leather having a bead for calking the welt crease, said bead having a body with grain face and there being in the strip two flanges integrally extending from that body; one of said flanges thus extending at the flesh side of the bead body, having a top surface of mid-substance, and being penetrated and sei cured by the threads of the inseam; the other of said flanges extending as aforesaid at the grain face of that body, having a top surface of grain face and constituting a lip which is bent down against the side of the bead body, presenting to view a rounded grain face covering the whole of that edge of the strip which is remote from the inseam.

2. In a welt shoe, the combination with an upper, a welt, an insole, and an inseam for securing them together, of a calking welt, lying in the shoe crease formed between the upper and the welt and secured by the inseam, composed of a single strip of material having a flat portion engaged with the exposed at face of the welt, a shouldered portion engaged with the upper, and a portion containing a grain surface integrally with the shouldered portion and having its free end engaged with the exposed at face of the welt.

3. A calking welt comprising a strip of material having a portion of its grain face along its inner edge removed to form a shoulder anda portion of its outer edge below the grain surface removed to form a lip or extension projecting freely from the shouldered face, said lip being turned down and secured to the outer edge.

4. A calking Welt comprising a strip of material having a portion of its grain face along its inner edge removed to form a shoulder and a portion of its outer edge below the grain surface removed to form a lip or extension projecting freely from the shouldered face, said lip being moulded upon the outer edge face.

5. A calking welt comprising a strip of material having a portion of its grain face along its inner edge removed to form a shoulder and a portion of its outer edge below the grain surface removed to form a lip or extension projecting freely from the shouldered face, said lip being molded upon the outer edge-face and secured thereto. i

6. That improvement in the art of making a single grain faced welt for stitch downs which consists in slitting an edge of a strip of welting below the grain surface thereof and in a direction parallel thereto to a predetermined extent, cutting into the grain surface in a direction normal thereto to a depth less than the distance of the slit fromy the grain surface and at a distance from the slit edge of the strip greater than the depth of the slit, and joining the slit and the cut by another cut.

7. That improvement in the art of making calking welts which consists in removing portions of the grain and the flesh faces of a strip of Welting so that the grain and flesh faces are intact i above and below the parts of the ilesh and grain faces from which portions have been removed,

respectively, turning the remaining grain face to place its inner face against the adjacent edge face of the remaining intact part of the strip, and securing the turned grain face to said edge face.

8. That improvement in the art of making calking welts which consists in removing portions of the grain and the flesh faces of a strip of welting so that the grain and flesh faces are intact above and below the parts of the flesh and grain faces from which portions have been removed, respectively, rendering the inner side of the remaining grain face sticky, and turning said sticky face against the adjacent edge face of the remaining intact part of the strip under molding pressure.

9. That improvement in the art of making calking welts which consists in removing portions of the grain face of a strip of Welting along opposite edges thereof leaving a central section of the grain face intact, removing a portion of the flesh face of the strip directly beneath the central section of the grain face, but narrower in width than said section, and dividing the remainder of the strip by a central cut through the central section of the grain face.

10. That improvement in the art of making calking Welts which consists in removing portions of the grain face of a strip of welting along opposite edges thereof leaving a central section of the grain face intact, removing a portion of the flesh face of the strip directly beneath the central section of the grain face, but narrower in width than said section, dividing the remainder `of the strip by a central cut through the central section of the grain face, rendering the inner side of the grain faces sticky, and turning said sticky faces against the adjacent edge faces of the strips under molding pressure.

11. A calking welt comprising a single strip of material having a flat bottom surface, a flat upper surface narrower in width than the bottom surface, a vertical shoulder the base of which forms one terminal for the upper surface and a lip having a grain face and a flesh face projecting from the shoulder, said flesh face being secured to one edge face of the strip and said grain face being rounded.

LLOYD F. PLUMMER. 

